Timberline Scenery Co. :: Weather-Rite Concentrated Weathering Powder

One of the first things a modeler notices when they visit a layout is the rolling stock and engines. If they’re factory fresh, they stick out like a sore thumb. No matter how realistic the scenery, backdrops, and details, if the cars aren’t properly weathered, the scene shouts, “Fake, model!” On the other hand, if the engines, rolling stock, buildings and structures are weathered, everything blends together.

Although it's not necessary, we recommend keeping a small cup of 'wet water' nearby and brushing the surface first. This will give the Weather-Rite Powder better adhesion. Wet water is simply water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid added to break the surface tension of the water.

1. Using a needle, razorblade or other sharp object, put a few scratches in the sides, top and ends of the car. (See photo’s below) You may even consider carefully melting the plastic with a soldering iron or heat gun to make 'dents' in the plastic. Remember, railcars are frequently abused!

2. After having prepped the railcar or engine in one of the above steps, take a small brush, dab it in the color of your choice and start brushing it lightly with vertical strokes. (Vertical, because most of the grunge rolls off the roof and down the sides due to the weather.)

The Weather-Rite Powder will seek out and stick better to the scratches, thus leaving rusty pock marks. Remember that the door slides will usually have the heaviest of the rust from their being opened and closed regularly.

3. Again, using long strokes, change colors and apply steaks to the sides covering up some of the letters and numbers on the car walls.

4. Repeat the above steps with varying colors until you achieve the look for which you’re wanting. If you’re not satisfied, Weather-Rite Powder maybe removed completely with soap and water. When you’re satisfied with your work, simply spay the surface with hair spray or a clear ‘fix-it’ to make the weathering permanent. After applying the clear coat your model should be able to withstand handling.

The following step is only necessary when dry brushing on ‘closed cell’ products such as plastic

We recommend buffing up or roughing up the surface a little bit to give the powder better adhesion. This also helps to scuff up the decals and make them look like they’ve been exposed to the elements and abuse as well. This can be done by lightly going over the surface with very fine sandpaper, about 400 grit works well.